Winterizing, Shrinkwrapping & Storage
Even if you're planning on a late layup, get your supplies or make arrangements for services early, so you can get everything you need, or get the pick of the schedule before we get busy. You should schedule Winterizing & Shrinkwrapping as soon as you know when you're pulling out, so your boat can be protected right away from freezing temperatures, dirt, rain, snow, animals, and insects. Consider washing and waxing your boat in the fall and having it shrinkwrapped to the water line. In the spring you'll love yourself for it. |
| Do-it-Yourselfers If you don't need our help to prep your boat for the off-season, we also carry the Winterizing and Shrinkwrapping supplies and accessories you'll need to do a complete job yourself, including equipment to make the job easier. . . If you're interested in receiving our Feature Flyers, ask to be put on our Mailing List , or sign up when you stop in, to receive more detailed product availability, prices, store specials, and other boater information throughout the season. |
| Helpful Hints for Fall Layup Before you put your boat to bed for the winter, you should do a comprehensive inspection, or have it done, to make sure you won't be starting out next season with troubles. A few dollars this fall can save you big money next spring. The following information is not detailed enough for someone who doesn't know how to perform all the procedures below. It is designed only as a very basic guide, and it is in no way a comprehensive maintenance program. We hope these helpful hints benefit you, but keep in mind that this information is not all-inclusive. If you're not sure what to do, or how to do it, don't take chances. Have professionals do the work for you. The key to safer storage is. . . if you're not sure what to do or how to do it, have your boat prepped for winter by professionals. You wouldn't work on your car if you didn't know what to do, so why take a chance with your boat? If you miss something or you do something wrong during fall layup, the few bucks you tried to save doing it yourself won't justify what it will cost you in major repairs, even with our low shop rates. Preventive maintenance, proper product use, and thorough jobs are the best way to save time, money and headaches later on. Damage can be caused by shortcutting and quick fixes. Taking time to do it right, or have it done right, is more beneficial to you and your boat in the long run. . . Spending a few extra dollars now can save you hundreds or even thousands in the spring! Your boat is an investment, and cutting corners can cost you. Whether you do your own fall layup or have it done, here are a few tips & suggestions . . . |
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The first thing to think about is your fuel. It will be sitting in your boat for several months. The reason you should think about it first is that you want to add your Fuel Stabilizer before shutting down your engine(s) for the winter. To prevent fuel problems while storing your boat, fill the tank almost full (don't top it off), and use fuel stabilizer. It's important to run the stabilizer through the entire fuel system for 10 minutes before fogging for complete protection. Don't put stabilizer just in the tank after the motor has been shut down. The rest of the fuel and fuel system won't be treated. Also, you should store your boat with an ALMOST full fuel tank, because changes in temperature can cause fuel to expand and contract, causing leakage if you top it off. Not enough fuel in the tank causes oxidation, corrosion, and water formation on the tank walls. Fumes in the space of an empty or partially full fuel tank can induce an explosion. The right time to fuel up and add fuel stabilizer is on your last run with the boat. |
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Speaking of fuel, don't forget to change your fuel/water separating filters, especially if you haven't done so recently. |
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Change the lower unit lube. If you have water in the lower unit, you don't want to wait until spring to find out it froze over the winter. A few dollars for lube now is a good investment to prevent having to replace a cracked lower unit in the spring. Service the lower unit (or have it serviced) if it hasn't been done in the past season (or every other season if your boat gets minimal use). |
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Check for water in the engine oil, whether or not you're planning on changing the oil and filter(s) now. Use an oil pad to prevent spills in the bilge while draining and replacing oil. If you're waiting until spring to change the oil that's fine, but add Oil Stabilizer to the crankcase oil. This stops oil breakdown, and prevents rust and corrosion on the internal engine components. |
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If you have a closed system, check the ethylene-glycol antifreeze. You'll still need to winterize the rest of the motor with propylene-glycol, non-toxic marine engine antifreeze, (fresh water runs through other parts of the engine, such as the cooler). |
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Pouring antifreeze into the motor(s) to winterize can be done, but it's easy to miss pockets that may hold water and freeze. We've had customers who did it this way for years with no problems, and then one year their luck ran out. The best way to protect your motor is to run antifreeze through the system. Make sure to use propylene-glycol, which is non-toxic marine grade antifreeze. The marine engine antifreeze is rated at -100oF full strength, and it contains corrosion inhibitors. Fresh-water/RV antifreeze is only rated at -50oF full strength, and it does not have the non-corrosion additives that engine antifreeze does. Both are non-toxic, but both lose their strength when mixed with water in your system. The use of Fresh-water/RV antifreeze is NOT recommended for engine winterizing. Don't skimp on antifreeze. The few dollars extra for a couple more gallons and for the right mixture is well worth the protection and peace of mind you gain. Just ask anyone wh has had to deal with springtime expense and anguish resulting from layup shortcuts. |
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Before winterizing your motor, examine the water intakes for debris. Check for water pump or impeller problems. Always make sure you run the motor on fresh water long enough to bring it up to temperature and open the thermostat, then shut down the engine, drain the block, and switch over to running the antifreeze through. This normally takes about 5 gallons of -100oF engine antifreeze per motor. The easiest way to accomplish this is with a winterizing kit. You can purchase a ready-to-go kit that will allow passage of both the fresh water & antifreeze without changing in mid-job, or a kit that you hook up after you remove the fresh water line from the motor flusher. |
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When you reach the last couple inches of antifreeze in the container, fog the motor until the engine stalls. If you collect a sample of the antifreeze as the last of it is expelled from the exhaust, you can bring it in to us and we'll test the mix quality for freeze-point.* If you're not sure what you're doing, this isn't the time to learn, unless you have someone with knowledge & experience with you to guide you through the entire process, start to finish. Have a professional take care of it if you have any doubts at all. If you make a mistake, it can be a very costly lesson! |
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Proper storage of a marine battery is important. If the battery is not at a full state of charge, it can freeze. But heat causes a battery to discharge faster. A cool, dry area is the best place to store, such as a shelf in a garage or basement, as long as dampness isn't a problem in the area you choose. Batteries should be charged about once a month for 12 hours at about 2 amps to maintain them over the winter. For more information on batteries, see our Battery Maintenance Information tip. |
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It's much easier to clean your boat bottom and water line now than in the spring after months of sitting with caked-on algae and other growths. Besides, it's one less thing you'll have to deal with in the spring. Bottom cleaners are available in several different forms and strengths, both in mixable dry types and ready-to-use liquids. Be sure to use the proper precautions when using acid products that can be harmful to skin, eyes, and lungs. |
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Make sure the hull is in good condition. Check for cracks and blistering if your boat is fiberglass. Good prep work is 90% of any job, especially when it comes to doing bottom work. So it may be wise to start doing repairs now. Opening up the damaged areas and allowing the moisture to escape is best done over time, and what better time to do it than when you're not using your boat! Then you'll be ready to start repairs in the spring. Ignoring these problems will only create larger and more expensive repairs if you continue to use the boat while in poor condition. Bottom paint alone will not seal the damaged areas. |
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If you use a canvas or poly cover, prevent "pools" by using the proper support. And to prevent tears, pad any sharp corners, wood framing or wood supports with old pieces of carpeting if you have any, or purchase some inexpensive trailer bunk carpeting. If you prefer, you can also use adjustable support poles, either with a metal tip to fit into a grommet or snap, or rubber on both ends for use without a grommet or snap. You can also help your canvas cover do its job by using canvas waterproofing. Secure your cover to a sturdy frame or strap it around the boat, not to the trailer or cradle, and make sure there are no overlapping portions that are loose. Have extra grommets added to your canvas if there aren't enough. For poly tarps, use tarp snaps for a secure fit. They easily snap onto the edge of the tarp and create an extra "grommet" anywhere you need one. Poking extra holes that aren't reinforced with a grommet and allowing pockets and flaps where the wind can catch are the two major causes of tarps tearing, leaving your boat exposed and unprotected. |
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If you prefer to shrinkwrap your boat, we can provide the necessary items you need such as 7 mil film, tape for seams, hull tape, strapping, etc. If you prefer to have it done, we also offer off-site and on-site shrinkwrapping services. |
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If you use a cradle or stands, check them out before setting your boat. If you store your boat on a trailer, make sure it's ready to roll when you are! Check it thoroughly before storing your boat. Don't wait until the day you pull your boat to find that there are problems. If you don't have the time to do it yourself, give Harbortown Marine a call and schedule repairs and servicing. For details about trailer care, see our Trailer TLC Helpful Hint. |
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Last but not least, if you remove your drain plug, put it somewhere that's noticeable, so you won't forget to put it back in the spring! |
| If you have questions about something else, give us a call . . . send us an e-mail . . . or just ask us when you stop in. We're happy to help! | |
| *Harbortown Marine tests and guarantees every winterizing job performed by our shop personnel. Customers who do their own winterizing assume full responsibility for the quality of the antifreeze test sample provided, and any damage which may occur from providing us with a flawed sample. Antifreeze mixture testing is provided as a customer convenience only, and it is not a guarantee against freezing. Harbortown Marine is not liable for work performed by customers, or the conditions under which customers obtain test samples. | |
Anchor Shackles / Battery Maintenance / Bottom Painting Tips
Safety Requirements / Propeller Performance
Save on PFD's / Spring Safety & Maintenance / Stern Drive Storage
Fuel Economy / Trailers Need TLC Too /
Winterizing, Shrinkwrapping & Storage
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